In 1996, while visiting my bestie Thelma in Sodwana, I tried
my hand at surfing. Because if Thelma could do it, I could do it! I couldn’t. I
ran in with the board and somehow got a teeny cut on my pinky finger from the leash.
That was that, I threw in the towel and decided to rather sit on the beach and
watch with a drink in hand.
Fast forward to 2012… On Christmas day, my parents gave me
the most amazing present of a trip to Hawaii!! My aunt lives there and they
were there a few years back and mumsy decided that it is the most perfect place
in the world for me. As I am the most financially challenged member of the
family, they decided to send me this year. So once the tears (of shock, love
and excitement) had cleared I started thinking…. H-A-W-A-I-I… WOOOHOOOO!!! And
what is one thing Hawaii is famous for? SURFING!! *Insert butt wiggle dance of joy*
At first I thought I should just take a lesson or two when I
arrived. Daddles suggested I ask my uncle to teach me. And then it hit me… I
was about to go to Cape Town and stay with Thelma, in Muizenberg, right near
the beach. So, I asked Thel to teach me since she is patient (partly due to the
fact that she's a mom), would know the tricks and the simple way to explain it.
I was SO right. Turns out all the practicing the learner surfers were doing on
the beach is a waste of time. According to Thelma, the only rule is this…
"when you get into the water, just keep paddling until you get to back
line." And for extra emphasis, she screamed "JUST KEEP
PADDLING!!"
So we walked down to the beach in our wetsuits (because the
water is a bit chilly) and boards under our arms, feeling like we was in a 70's
surf movie. To be honest, I don't think Thel was feeling that but I was, as a
surfing virgin with a sometimes overactive imagination. The walk wasn’t as
awesome as it sounds, I had a long board and it was a bit windy so I was trying
not to get blown over.
Anyway, we got to the beach, (wet)suited up and I was good
to go. After wading into the water to about waist level, I vaulted onto the
board and got ready to paddle. Now, I train at gym almost every day but it
means nothing since I don’t paddle at the gym. It was exhausting and I was
stiff for days afterwards! Anyway, I eventually got myself out to back line and
sat myself astride the board. It was everything I imagined it would be! That’s what
I actually wanted to do, rather than learn any fancy moves. It was peaceful and
quiet and awesome! Well worth the paddle!
But what goes out must come back in and I was there to surf!
So, I tried… I first caught a wave like a body boarder (I used to body board so
it came naturally), then paddled out again (but not all the way out) and kept
catching waves and just generally having a fun time on the board (that I must
mention really IS your best friend out there!). I laughed at myself when I face
planted off the board when I stood too far forward. I accepted the knowing
looks from seasoned surfers (the one's that said, "Oh bless! She's a
surfing virgin!"). I also watched some of the learner surfers and stole
some ideas from them. And it almost happened that day… I almost stood all the
way up! I got onto my haunches and wobbled up into a half stand. Then I fell
off. But it was great! And Thelma cheered me on, so it felt event better than I'm
sure it looked.
The next day I could hardly move my arms, my abs were stiff
and I had bruises on my front hip bones (I keep forgetting they stick out now!)
from lying on the board. I quite enjoy saying I'm stiff and bruised from surfing rather than gym or cleaning the house. It sounds SO much cooler!
On my last day, actually the day I left Cape Town to fly home
to Joburg, we got another quick surf in, just to cement the muscle memory. So
we went with Thel's husband and hit the waves. It was a bit choppier than the
first time and I must admit I was a little nervous. But we got out and I sat on
that board taking it all in… the swells were very soothing that day! After a wave,
Thel screamed at me to catch a wave and eventually I did (she is almost as
scary as a Great White sometimes!). She had warned me that it's hard to get
back out if you go too shallow and I found this out the hard way. So I decided
to stay where I could stand and just perfect the craft there.
I splashed around in the waves, regularly flung myself onto
the board (causing new bruises) and just had so much fun! But then, IT
HAPPENED!!! I stood all the way up! It was amazing! I really don’t remember
when I was that excited to stand! But stand I did! And I woohoo'ed and I wooohoo'ed
loud and proud!! And I'm sure there was a crowd cheering behind me, but I can’t
be sure… I was also privileged to see Thelma catch and ride an awesome wave…
made me so proud to be her friend!
And so, I can surf. I won't be winning any competitions,
unless there's a participation/sympathy prize, but I have done it and I can
keep on doing it. When I'm at the coast, obviously. I can now hit the Hawaiian
waves and tell them that "Yes, I have surfed before."
So in about 4 months, bring it!! And bring it hard!! But not
too big, I'm still scared of big waves and head injuries…
